Collars, sleeves & fits

Button-down collar

Also known as: BD collar

Collar with buttoned-down points – Ivy League classic with a sporty character.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

The button-down collar was introduced in 1896 by John E. Brooks for Brooks Brothers. The model came from English polo, where players buttoned down the points of their shirts so they would not flap in the wind. Two small buttons at the collar points fix the collar to the chest.

The points are relatively long at 8 to 9 cm, the spread is 70 to 90 degrees. The soft drape between the buttoned points creates a characteristic slightly puffy 'roll' – particularly pronounced on vintage Brooks Brothers shirts. Connoisseurs regard this roll as a mark of quality.

Structurally the button-down is made with soft or no interlining so that the typical soft look emerges. Collar stays are out of place here. The band measures 3 to 3.5 cm.

The button-down is a casual collar and is traditionally not worn with a tie – though in the Ivy Style canon it is definitely combined with slim ties. It goes with Oxford shirts of thicker cotton fabric, chinos and blazers. For formal business occasions it is uncommon in continental Europe.

Properties

Point length8–9 cm
Spread angleapprox. 70–90°
ConstructionTwo buttons at points
Typical useCasual, Ivy style

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Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Button-down collar Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Button-down_collar
  2. Gentleman's Gazette: Button-Down Collar gentlemansgazette.com https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/dress-shirt-collars-guide/

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