Collars, sleeves & fits

Gigot / leg-of-mutton sleeve

Also known as: Leg-of-mutton sleeve, Mutton sleeve, Gigot

Historical sleeve, extremely full at the top and tapering tightly from the elbow to the wrist — shaped like a leg of mutton.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

The gigot or leg-of-mutton sleeve is a historically very voluminous sleeve that reaches its maximum width at the armhole and tapers tightly from the elbow to the wrist — the silhouette resembles a leg of mutton (French: gigot). It shaped two prominent eras of women's fashion: the late 1820s/1830s and again the 1890s under the name "leg-of-mutton sleeve".

To hold the enormous cap width in shape, 19th-century tailors used internal sleeve supports (horsehair, quills, later stiffened cotton rolls). In contemporary fashion the gigot regularly reappears in bridal and runway collections (Simone Rocha, Ulla Johnson) and is essentially the dramatic big sister of the puff sleeve.

  • Widest circumference at the shoulder, about 3-4 times the upper-arm width
  • Cuff usually narrow, often with button placket
  • Works best in crisp light fabrics (taffeta, organza, cotton poplin)
  • Frequently combined with high closed collars and narrow waists

Properties

Sleeve shapeVery full at the top, narrow at the wrist
Historical era1830s and 1890s, current revivals
Suitable fabricsTaffeta, organza, poplin, silk
CombinationHigh collar, tight waist, princess seam

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Leg-of-mutton sleeve Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leg-of-mutton_sleeve
  2. V&A Museum: Victorian sleeves vam.ac.uk https://www.vam.ac.uk/

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