Collars, sleeves & fits

Italian collar

Also known as: Sprezzatura collar

Widely opened collar of Italian style, elegant and softly draping.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

The Italian collar is a further development of the cutaway, perfected mainly in Naples and Milan. It shows a spread angle of about 100 to 140 degrees and points of 7 to 8 cm length. Characteristic is the softer, often only lightly or unfused interlining – the collar falls casually and naturally without appearing too stiff.

Typical Italian sprezzatura – that cultivated nonchalance – shows up especially well here: without a tie the collar falls softly over the lapel of a jacket, with a tie it cleanly accommodates even a full Windsor. The collar band at 3 to 3.5 cm is often lower than on the New Kent, giving the collar a more relaxed seat.

Structurally many Italian tailors omit collar stays and instead use soft, unfused pure cotton canvas interlinings. The result: an authentic, slightly wavy drape considered particularly elegant.

The Italian collar suits business shirts with sartorial ambitions, casual shirts of fine linen or cotton voile, and combinations with soft jackets. Compared to the cutaway it looks less constructed and more suitable for everyday wear.

Properties

Point length7–8 cm
Spread angleapprox. 100–140°
InterliningSoft, often unfused
Typical useSartorial, business, casual

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Gentleman's Gazette: Italian vs English Collar gentlemansgazette.com https://www.gentlemansgazette.com/dress-shirt-collars-guide/
  2. Wikipedia: Sprezzatura Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sprezzatura

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