Mermaid cut

The mermaid cut is a variation of the classic sheath and pencil dress: bodice and skirt lie very close to the body and clearly outline the waist and hips. Only from the knee — typically between just below the knee and mid-calf — does the skirt open out sharply into a bell-shaped flounce panel, often built from several extra panels or inset godets.

Structurally the cut therefore requires two features: a closely fitted body with darts, princess or long-line seams shaping the silhouette, and a distinctive “opening line” at which the flounce is joined. The related trumpet cut differs in that its opening sits higher (around mid-thigh) and the flare is more moderate; mermaid opens lower and flares more dramatically. Applications are dominated by evening wear and bridal gowns (floor-length version), while cocktail dresses in midi length also pick up the motif. Suitable fabrics are fluid but structured: heavy satin, crepe, mikado, tulle layers, lace on lining or duchesse; thin, flimsy fabrics lose the sharp silhouette break at the transition. For the wearer the cut restricts stride width — similar to a classic pencil skirt.

• Silhouette: close to knee/calf, then bell-shaped flare
• Opening line: typically mid-knee to mid-calf
• Fabrics: heavy satin, crepe, mikado, tulle, duchesse
• Use: bridal and evening wear, rarely midi cocktail