Dyeing & finishing

Wash in which pumice stones soaked in potassium permanganate are tumbled with denim — produces sharp contrast between white marbling and dark blue areas.

Chemical, enzymatic or mechanical treatment that prevents or delays the formation of fibre knots (pills) on the fabric surface.

Chemical or mechanical finish that reduces electrostatic buildup on textiles — essential for electronics workwear and synthetic fibre clothing.

Dyeing process with anionic dyes in an acidic bath — standard for wool, silk and polyamide.

Resist dyeing with liquid wax — Javanese tradition, UNESCO World Heritage since 2009. Characteristic are fine crackle lines in the waxed areas.

Water-repellent finish based on plant-derived raw materials — completely PFAS-free, compostable residual chemistry, modern alternative to C6/C0 DWR.

Fluorine-free, PFAS-free hydrophobic finish by Rudolf Group biomimetically reproducing the lotus effect.

Wash with sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for controlled brightening of denim or cotton fabrics — produces heavily washed-out, often area-wide bleaching look.

Quick test for fibre identification in which a small yarn sample is ignited at a flame (lighter, Bunsen burner, burn tester) and the burning behaviour, smell and residue are analysed.

Umbrella term for all chemical processes that remove natural yellowness or foreign shades from raw fabric — the basis for subsequent dyeing; hydrogen peroxide processes now dominate.

Electrolytic deposition of a thin metal layer (silver, copper, nickel) onto textiles that have been pre-treated to be conductive.

Resist dyeing in which the textile is tied, wrapped or knotted before dyeing — the tied areas take up less colour and produce typical patterns like spirals and mandalas.

Two-step printing process: the motif is first printed onto a carrier medium and then transferred to the textile by heat and pressure — flexible for small runs and complex motifs.

Fibre blend of cotton, polyester and rayon (viscose), typical for very soft, draping T-shirts.

Water-repellent finish without fluorine chemistry — based on silicones, waxes, polyurethanes or dendrimers. Eco-friendly alternative to C6/C8 DWR.

Water-repellent impregnation based on short-chain perfluoro-hexyl compounds — transitional technology between the banned C8 and PFAS-free C0.

Water-repellent finish based on C8/PFOA chemistry that dominated until the early 2010s — banned in the EU under the POP regulation since 2020.

Finishing process in which a cotton fabric impregnated with wax or resin is passed through a fast-running polished calender, producing a smooth, highly glossy chintz effect.

Energy-saving dyeing process with highly reactive dyes at 20-30 degrees instead of 60-80.

Dyeing a blend fabric with two dye classes so each fibre type takes a different shade.

Textile finishing by heated, high-pressure rollers — smooths, densifies and imparts gloss or embossing.

Warm pressing process between a heated metal roller and a softer counter roller — smooths, compacts and stabilises fabrics in the final finish without changing the fibre structure.

Mechanical finishing in which the fabric is smoothed under pressure between heated, polished rollers — imparts gloss, hand feel and volume control.

Continuous reactive dyeing process without added heat — extremely water- and energy-saving with excellent fastness.

Chemical etch printing process that dissolves cellulose fibres in blend fabrics and creates semi-transparent patterns.

Industrial inkjet printing on roll goods — prints patterns from the roll in any repeat length and colour count, ideal for fast fashion and small runs.

Direct inkjet printing onto textiles without screens — enables photo-realistic motifs, small runs and personalisation.

Ombre colour gradient created by partially dipping the garment into a dye bath.

Textile inkjet printing in which water-based pigment inks are sprayed directly onto the garment — ideal for photorealistic small runs from a single piece.

Dyeing of cellulose with substantive dyes that bind to the fibre via van der Waals forces — fast and cheap, but with limited wet fastness.

Printing process that etches the base colour of the fabric away at specific spots — extremely soft hand.

Textile printing technique that chemically discharges the existing dye and optionally replaces it with a new colour — resulting in super-soft prints with no surface film.

Dyeing of hydrophobic synthetic fibres such as polyester with finely dispersed, water-insoluble dyes at 130 degrees Celsius using the HT process.

Digital transfer of disperse dyes from carrier paper into the polyester fibre at 195–215 °C — the standard process for sports jerseys and all-over prints.

Finish that significantly reduces shrinkage and felting of wool during washing.

Dyeing with insoluble pigments and binders that sit only on the fibre surface and produce a vintage look.

Printing process in which insoluble pigments are fixed to the fibre surface with a polymer binder — universally applicable on all fibres.

Textile printing process in which insoluble colour pigments are bonded to the fibre with a polymer binder — simple, universal, no washing off required.

Dye process in which insoluble pigments are mechanically fixed to the fibre with a binder — creates the characteristic vintage, „lived-in" look.

Garment given a vintage look with soft hand and fading colours by pigment dye.

PVC-based opaque screen-printing ink that sits on top of the fibre and cures at 150–170 °C — the global standard for T-shirt printing.

Cost-effective, elastic polyurethane layer applied to textiles for waterproofness — less breathable than silicone and prone to hydrolysis.

English label term for pre-shrunk fabric; guarantees low residual shrinkage after making-up.

Bold screen-print variant with strongly rising relief (up to 3 mm) for retro and streetwear looks.

Fabric whose shrinkage potential was released before making-up by wash, steam or Sanforising processes.

Made-up garments industrially washed before delivery to release shrinkage and create a soft hand.

Cotton fabric whose surface has been smoothed and softened by cellulase enzymes.

Wash with cellulase enzymes that trims fibre ends and creates a softer, smoother hand.

Process of washing with enzymes; umbrella term for bio-polishing and enzyme-wash processes.

Yarn with intentionally thicker spots (slubs) giving fabric a natural, irregular appearance.

Mechanical pre-shrinking of cotton fabrics by the Sanford Cluett process with residual shrinkage below one percent.

Mechanical cropping of protruding fibre ends to uniform height with a rotating spiral blade — creates smooth, precise surface on velvet, fleece and wool fabrics.

Finish in which the fabric runs over abrading rollers that create an ultra-fine pile — result is the typical peach-skin hand.

Umbrella term for fabrics whose shrinkage potential has been reduced before making-up by mechanical or thermal processes.

Printing process in which plastisol or water-based ink is pressed through a fine-mesh screen onto the textile with a squeegee — the standard for promotional and sports textiles in medium to large runs.

Silicone layer applied to or impregnated into textiles — extremely UV- and temperature-stable, more durable than PU but more expensive and harder to glue.

Softening finish with amino-silicone emulsion that creates a velvety, flowing hand.

Finish with silver ions or nano-silver that inhibits odour bacteria on the skin and extends freshness.

Textile after-treatment with softening agents for a particularly soft, smooth and pliable hand.

Washing process in which denim or cotton items are tumbled with pumice stones in industrial washers — creates the classic used look.

Indirect sublimation print: the motif is pre-printed on transfer paper and gasified into polyester fabric with heat.

Transfer print in which dyes diffuse from carrier paper directly into polyester fibres under heat — works only on polyester and polymer-coated surfaces.

Textile decoration using a solid-coloured, plotter-cut polyurethane or PVC film that is thermally bonded onto the fabric by a transfer press.

Plotted polyurethane or PVC film applied to fabric with a heat press at 120–150 °C — the standard for jersey names and numbers.

Advanced form of mercerisation: concentrated sodium hydroxide (20–30 %) applied under high warp tension and heat — cotton gains even greater lustre, colour depth and tensile strength than in cold mercerisation.

Visual term for fabric with a mixed, shading colour impression from differently dyed fibres.

Heat treatment of synthetic fibres (PES, PA) on a stenter frame — prevents shrinkage and permanently stabilises shape and texture.

Printing process where short textile fibres (flock) are shot electrostatically into an adhesive layer on the textile — velvety hand and highly wash-resistant.

Metallic-glossy textile finishing — an adhesive layer is printed and metallic foil is heat-bonded on top.

Textile print technique using thermally-expanding plastisol or waterborne inks — 3D relief with soft, velvety surface.

Dyeing of the already made-up garment instead of fibre or piece goods — produces a soft hand, slightly uneven look and enables flexible small runs.

Industrial wash of the finished garment to create hand, look and fit.

Softly worn, vintage look on the finished garment created by cellulase enzyme washing.

Fabric whose colour was dyed at yarn stage before being woven or knitted.

Vat dyeing with indanthrene dyes; achieves highest wash and light fastness for long-lasting fabrics.

Traditional vat dyeing with indigo; central to denim with its typical vintage fading.

Classic vat dyeing with the indigo dye, in which yarn is repeatedly dipped into reduced vats and oxidised in air — the basis of every denim.

Digital direct printing of designs via inkjet on textiles — no screens, ideal for small runs and photo motifs.

Two-stage dyeing with water-insoluble dyes that become soluble in an alkaline reduction bath and precipitate back onto the fibre after oxidation.

Yarn with reduced twist for maximum soft hand and voluminous appearance.

Yarn or fabric with a mixed colour impression from two or more fibre dyeings in the same yarn.

Twist yarn from two or more differently coloured single yarns creating a shading thread appearance.

Dyes from plants and insects — indigo, madder, cochineal, weld, woad — dominated textile dyeing until synthetic dyes were invented in the 19th century.

Dyeing process with dyes from plants, animals or minerals — historically dominant, today a niche for eco-fashion and traditional craft.

Yarn with spun-in fibre nubs that gives fabric a grainy, three-dimensional structure.

Mechanical raising of the fabric surface with rotating needle or card rollers — produces a soft, warm pile on fleece, sweat or wool fabrics.

Coloured goods are dyed a second time in a different colour - creating tonal, vintage-like effects.

Dry bleaching process with gaseous ozone in a closed chamber — saves up to 80 percent water compared to classic bleach wash.

Dyeing process in which the dye forms a covalent chemical bond with the cellulose fibre.

Dye class with reactive anchor groups that bond covalently to cellulose and wool fibres.

Dyeing process in which the dye forms a covalent bond with cellulose or wool fibres, producing extremely wash-fast results.

Print or transfer film with retroreflective glass beads or micro-prisms that throw incoming light back to its source — standard for high-visibility clothing and safety applications.

Single cold wash without bleach or enzymes — only removes residual dye and shrinkage potential while preserving the deep raw denim colour.