Dyeing & finishing

Devoré burnout printing

Also known as: Burnout print, Etch print, Devoré

Chemical etch printing process that dissolves cellulose fibres in blend fabrics and creates semi-transparent patterns.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Devoré (French for "devoured") is a textile printing process developed in Lyon at the turn of the 20th century. A blend fabric of cellulose fibres (viscose, cotton, rayon) and protein fibres (usually silk, occasionally wool) or polyester is printed with an acidic paste containing sodium hydrogen sulphate and then heat-cured in an oven.

On heating the acid completely destroys the cellulose in the printed areas while the protein or polyester fibre remains intact. After washing the design appears as a transparent negative, producing the classic burnout velvet or devoré T-shirt look — popular in the 1920s and revived from the late 1980s by Jasper Conran and Georgina von Etzdorf.

  • Only meaningful with blends of clearly different fibre classes
  • Handling requires extraction and pH neutralisation in the after-wash bath
  • Typical results: burnout velvet, sheer blouses, scarves, patterned T-shirts
  • Not possible on pure cotton, polyester-only or pure silk fabrics

Properties

ProcessAcid etch printing with sodium hydrogen sulphate
Suitable substratesBlends of cellulose/silk or cellulose/PES
ApplicationBurnout velvet, scarves, patterned T-shirts, dresses
CareGentle wash at 30 °C, no tumble-dry, cool iron

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Devoré Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Devor%C3%A9
  2. V&A Museum: Devoré scarves vam.ac.uk https://www.vam.ac.uk/

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