Bagged seam
Also known as: Turned seam, Bag-out seam
Joining technique for two layers where the seam allowance is hidden inside after turning the piece — used on collars, cuffs, pocket flaps and plackets.
Description
The bagged (or turned) seam (German verstürzte Naht, French couture retournée) is one of the most important construction seams in industrial garment making. Two layers of fabric (e.g. upper and under collar, cuff and cuff facing, top and bottom of a pocket flap) are placed right sides together and sewn all around except for a turning gap. The piece is then turned inside out through the gap so that the seam allowance disappears completely inside and the seam appears as a clean, hidden edge on the outside.
After turning, the edge is usually additionally edge-stitched (top stitch 1–3 mm from the edge) or rolled, to fix the turned edge in place. Advantages: no visible thread ends or overlock, high-quality look, no fraying. Classic uses: shirt collars, cuffs, blazer collars, plackets, pocket flaps, lapels, scarf tips, cushion covers, blouse trims, hood edges. Key quality features: even seam allowance (typically 5–7 mm), clean corners (allowance trimmed diagonally so it lays flat), correct edge-stitch distance.
- Principle: right sides together, turn, edge hidden
- Typical allowance: 5–7 mm
- Follow-up: edge stitch 1–3 mm from edge
- Uses: collars, cuffs, pocket flaps, plackets
Properties
| Principle | sew right sides together, turn |
|---|---|
| Typical seam allowance | 5–7 mm |
| Follow-up | edge stitch 1–3 mm from edge |
| Corner treatment | trim seam allowance diagonally |
| Application | collars, cuffs, flaps, plackets |
Related product categories
Sources & references
1- Wikipedia: Seam (sewing) Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seam_(sewing)
