Seams & garment construction

Double-folded (French) seam

Also known as: French seam, double-folded seam, double-turned seam

Seam in which the allowance is folded twice and re-stitched — raw edges are fully enclosed and the inside stays clean.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

The double-folded seam — known in English as a French seam and in German trade often as Kappnaht — is a two-step construction: first the fabric panels are laid wrong sides together and joined with a narrow allowance of about 5–7 mm. The piece is then turned so the right sides face each other and a second seam (about 7–10 mm) is stitched over the first. The raw edges are thus enclosed in the seam channel and cannot fray.

This construction is used above all for light fabrics (blouses, nightwear, kids' wear, fine shirts), for sheer materials and on unlined insides where a clean, closed look is wanted without a visible overlock or edge finish. A close relative is the flat-felled seam (Kappnaht in the strict sense, e.g. on jeans inseams) where the allowance is additionally flattened and secured with a visible double topstitch — here too all raw edges are enclosed.

  • Two steps: sew wrong-to-wrong, then right-to-right
  • Raw edges fully enclosed — no fraying
  • Typical for light, sheer or unlined fabrics
  • Related: flat-felled seam (jeans inseam)

Properties

ConstructionTwo stitch lines, raw edges enclosed
Typical useBlouses, fine shirts, nightwear, children's wear
AdvantageNo fraying, clean inside without overlock

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Seam (sewing) Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seam_(sewing)
  2. Wikipedia: Flat-felled seam Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat-felled_seam

Related terms

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