Seams & garment construction

Flatlock seam

Also known as: Flatlock, Flat seam, Flatlock stitch

Flat, stretchable joining seam without bulk – standard in sportswear and performance apparel.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

The flatlock seam is a flat-lying, highly elastic joining seam in which two fabric edges are butted together and overstitched with several needle and looper threads. Typical constructions use 3, 4 or 5 threads: two or three needle threads from above plus an upper and lower looper thread. Stitch density is 4–5 stitches per cm; strength reaches 60–90 N/cm at 30–50 % break elongation.

Because the seam sits flat against the skin, no chafing points occur – ideal for baselayers, compression wear, cycling jerseys and running shirts. Sample products at Clubmartin include the Merino baselayer long sleeve, trail-run shorts and yoga leggings. Sewing is done on flatlock machines (Union Special, Pegasus W600) with textured looper yarn, giving the seam a soft, breathable feel.

Properties

Stitch types3-, 4-, 5-thread flatlock
Needle threads2–3 needle threads + 1–2 looper threads
Usagesportswear, baselayer, compression wear

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Flatlockstich Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flatlockstich
  2. Union Special Flatlock-Maschinen unionspecial.com https://www.unionspecial.com/

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