Linking seam

The linking seam (linking stitch, Italian rimaglio) is a premium way of joining knitted pieces, in which every single loop of the two edge rows to be joined is manually placed on a needle disc of a special linking machine and then chain-stitched together with a thread. The result is an extremely thin, low-bulk, maximally elastic seam that does not block the fabric and remains almost invisible.

Classic uses: attaching the neck band on crew-neck and polo-neck sweaters, sleeve cuffs and hem bands, shoulder seams on fully-fashioned goods, and joining two colour fields in intarsia knits. The gauge (gg) of the linking machine must match the gauge of the knit exactly - typical values are 12, 14 and 18 gg for merino wool and baby alpaca fine knits.

Process detail: an experienced linker manages 60-90 neck bands per hour. Because manual loop placement is very labour-intensive, linked construction is a clear quality signal - mass production uses overlock or chain cover-stitch seams instead, which are faster but heavier and less elastic. Brands like Loro Piana, Brunello Cucinelli, Falconeri and John Smedley actively market 'fully-fashioned linked' on their labels. In sock manufacture the same operation is called 'toe closing / rosso' - the toe seam is closed by a linking machine to avoid a rubbing ridge.