Seams & garment construction

Lockstitch 301

Also known as: straight stitch 301, plain lockstitch, ISO 301

The basic stitch of virtually every sewing machine in the world — interlocks the needle and bobbin thread in the middle of the fabric and keeps seams largely stable even if one stitch breaks.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Lockstitch per ISO 4915 stitch class 300, stitch type 301, is the plain double-locked stitch: the upper needle thread pulls the bobbin loop up into the middle of the fabric where both threads interlock. Roughly half of all industrial sewing machines in the world produce exactly this stitch.

Advantages: extremely secure, because a single thread break will not unravel the seam (only local strength is reduced); identical on both sides; very tidy and highly productive. Downside: little extensibility — it is therefore ideal for woven articles (shirts, tailored trousers, blazers, denim topstitching, leather goods) but unsuitable for stretchy knits — those use 504 overlock or 401 chainstitch.

  • ISO 4915 class 300, stitch type 301
  • Needle thread + bobbin thread, interlocked inside the fabric
  • Very secure, clean, identical on both sides
  • Low extensibility — primarily for woven fabrics

Properties

Stitch classISO 4915 class 300 — stitch type 301
Threads2 (needle + bobbin)
AppearanceIdentical on both sides, very tidy
SecurityHigh — a broken stitch will not unravel the seam
ApplicationShirts, tailored trousers, blazers, denim, leather

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Lockstitch Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockstitch
  2. American & Efird: Stitch-Type Matrix (PDF) amefird.com https://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Stitch-Type-Matrix.pdf

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