Seams & garment construction

Lockstitch (class 301)

Also known as: Straight stitch, Single needle lockstitch, 301 stitch

The classic lockstitch with an upper and a bobbin thread – the basic stitch of nearly every sewing machine.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

The lockstitch (ISO 4915 class 301) is formed by needle and hook together: the upper thread interlocks with the bobbin thread in the middle of the fabric. It looks identical on both sides, is barely stretchable (5–10 %) and reaches 60–120 N/cm strength at 4–5 stitches/cm.

The 301 stitch is standard for wovens such as shirts, blouses, suit trousers, chinos and for visible topstitching. Sewn on single-needle lockstitch machines (Juki DDL-8100, Brother S-1000A). Not suited to highly elastic materials – overlock or zigzag are preferred there.

Properties

Stitch classISO 4915 class 301
Needle threads1 needle thread + 1 bobbin thread
Usagewoven fabrics, topstitching, confection
Stitch density4–5 stitches/cm

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Lockstitch Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lockstitch
  2. Wikipedia: List of sewing stitches (ISO 4915) Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_sewing_stitches

Related terms

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