Seams & garment construction

Lockstitch seam

Also known as: Lockstitch, Class 301

Classic lockstitch with upper and bobbin thread – the most widespread seam of all.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

The lockstitch seam (stitch class 301 per DIN 61400) is formed by interlocking a needle thread with a bobbin thread guided in the hook. The knot ideally sits in the middle of the fabric. With 100–180 N/cm strength, only 5–15 % stretch and excellent thread economy, it is the universal standard in garment making.

Stitch density 3–5 per cm, needle sizes Nm 70–110. Used for shirts, blouses, jackets, chinos, denim (saddle stitch), polos and bags. Sample products at Clubmartin: business shirts, blouses, jacket. Machines: Juki DDL-8700, PFAFF 1181, Brother S-7220C.

Properties

Stitch typesClass 301 lockstitch
Needle threads1 upper + 1 bobbin thread
Usageuniversal, wovens

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Steppstich Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Steppstich
  2. Juki DDL-8700 juki.com https://www.juki.com/

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