Seams & garment construction

Overlock machine

Also known as: Serger, Overlocker, Merrow machine

Industrial sewing machine that in one pass trims, overcasts and joins fabric edges using needle and looper threads.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (1)

Description

The overlock machine (US: serger) is a specialised sewing machine that performs three operations in one pass: it trims the fabric edge with an integrated upper/lower knife, overcasts it to prevent fraying and joins two fabric plies. Instead of bobbins it uses loopers that wrap the thread around the edge.

Overlocks are classified by thread count:

  • 2-thread overlock: edge finishing of light fabrics
  • 3-thread overlock: standard finishing, stretch seams (jersey)
  • 4-thread overlock (safety stitch): very stable manufacturing seam – standard in T-shirt and sweatshirt production
  • 5-thread overlock: combines chain stitch + overlock into a particularly strong safety seam (jeans, workwear)

Industrial machines run at 5,000–9,000 stitches per minute; leading brands are Juki, Pegasus, Yamato, Brother, Baby Lock and Merrow (inventor of the overlock stitch, 1889). The overlock is essential for sport-, underwear- and knit-garment production because it allows the seam to stretch.

Properties

FunctionTrim + overcast + join
Thread configurations2-, 3-, 4-, 5-thread
Standard garment4-thread (safety stitch)
Speed5,000-9,000 stitches/min
ManufacturersJuki, Pegasus, Yamato, Merrow
HistoryMerrow 1889 (USA)

Related product categories

Sources & references

1
  1. Wikipedia: Serger (Overlock) Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Serger

Related terms

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