Seams & garment construction

Overlock stitches

Also known as: Serger stitch, Overedge stitch

Edge-wrapping seams using 3–5 threads that overcast and join in one step.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Overlock stitches (serger seams) wrap the fabric edge with one or more needle threads and two looper threads. Common variants are 3-thread (1 needle, upper/lower looper) for light jerseys, 4-thread for load-bearing hems and 5-thread (safety stitch) with an integrated chain stitch as the structural join. Stitch density is 4–6 per cm; strength 50–120 N/cm.

Overlock prevents fraying, is moderately stretchable (20–40 %) and is the standard method for joining jersey and sweat fabrics. Sample products at Clubmartin: crew-neck T-shirts, sweatshirts, polos. Sewn on machines such as Pegasus M700, Juki MO-6800 or Yamato AZ8500 with textured looper yarn.

Properties

Stitch types3-, 4-, 5-thread overlock
Needle threads1–2 needle + 2 looper
Usagejersey, sweat, edge finishing

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Overlock Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock
  2. DIN 61400 Nahtarten Beuth Verlag / DIN https://www.beuth.de/de/norm/din-61400/

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