Seams & garment construction

Padding stitch (pad stitch)

Also known as: Pad stitch, Padding stitch

Hand stitch that joins horsehair canvas or fusible interlining to the shell fabric and shapes collar/lapel – hallmark of bespoke menswear.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (1)

Description

The pad stitch is a diagonal hand stitch that attaches horsehair canvas or wool canvas to the shell fabric of a jacket or blazer. By varying thread tension it permanently shapes lapel, front piece and collar stand. A classic half-canvas jacket: 1500–2000 pad stitches per front panel.

The stitch is a hallmark of true bespoke work and, in industrial production, is replaced by fusible interlining – faster but less durable and less form-stable. In confection, pad stitching is now reserved for premium blazers and formal wear.

Properties

Stitch typeshand stitch, diagonal
Usagelapel, jacket, bespoke
Substratehorsehair canvas, wool canvas
Stitch count1500–2000 per front panel

Related product categories

Sources & references

1
  1. Wikipedia: Pikieren (Schneiderei) Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pikieren_(Schneiderei)

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