Seams & garment construction

Safety-edge overlock 504

Also known as: 504 overlock, 3-thread overedge 504, safety edge stitch

Classic three-thread overlock per ISO 4915 stitch class 504 — secures the cut edge, stretches with the seam and is standard in almost every knit and activewear garment.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Stitch type 504 belongs to ISO 4915 stitch class 500 (overlock stitches) and is a three-thread overedge stitch: one needle carries the needle thread, two loopers (upper and lower) interlace its loops around the fabric edge. The result is a very elastic, tidy edge finish that also prevents the cut edge from fraying.

504 is the most common seam construction in cut-and-sew garments: it joins side and shoulder seams on T-shirts, sweatshirts, hoodies, jerseys and sportswear, as well as sleeve and hem edges. Combined with a 401 double-lock chainstitch (on the same machine), it forms the "true" safety-stitch seam ISO 516, familiar for example from denim inseams.

  • 3 threads: 1 needle + 2 loopers
  • Highly extensible (ideal for jersey, fleece, activewear)
  • Secures the cut edge against fraying
  • Combined with 401 → ISO 516 safety-stitch seam

Properties

Stitch classISO 4915 class 500 — stitch type 504
Threads3 (1 needle + 2 loopers)
ExtensibilityVery high — ideal for knits/jersey
ApplicationSide/shoulder/sleeve seams, edge finishing
CombinationWith 401 → ISO 516 safety-stitch

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Overlock Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Overlock
  2. American & Efird: Stitch-Type Matrix (PDF) amefird.com https://www.amefird.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/Stitch-Type-Matrix.pdf

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