Weaves & fabric constructions

Brocade

Also known as: Brocade fabric

Heavy figured Jacquard fabric with supplementary weft threads — often gold or silver lamella — making the motif look embroidered.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Brocade is a multi-weft Jacquard fabric in which additional wefts — often in contrasting colour or metallic (gold or silver lamella, lamé) — are woven on top of the ground weave. In pattern areas they float on the face; in non-pattern areas they run on the reverse (brocading technique). This produces a raised, relief-like motif that looks embroidered.

The name comes from Italian broccato (embossed, embroidered). Historically silk brocade from Byzantium, China and Persia; the European centres were Venice and Lyon. Modern fibres: silk, viscose, polyester and cotton; metallic threads are usually cellophane-wrapped aluminium or copper. Weights 180-350 g/m².

Historically used for ecclesiastical and courtly vestments, upholstery and wall coverings. Today for evening fashion, traditional waistcoats, ties, upholstery and stage costumes. Distinction from damask: brocade carries supplementary wefts and is multi-colour/lustrous; damask is single-colour and flat.

Properties

Weave typeJacquard with supplementary weft
Typical fibresSilk, viscose, polyester, metal threads
Fabric weight180-350 g/m²
UseEveningwear, waistcoats, upholstery, ties

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Brokat Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brokat
  2. Textile Institute textileinstitute.org https://www.textileinstitute.org/

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