Weaves & fabric constructions

Herringbone

Also known as: Herringbone twill

English term for herringbone twill, particularly in the context of British suiting and tweeds.

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Herringbone denotes the herringbone twill weave in international and English-language textile trade. The term is especially established in British menswear, where Herringbone Tweed and Herringbone Suiting are classic patterns. It is a woven fabric — warp and weft cross at right angles — with a mirrored twill rapport.

Characteristic is the combination of Z- and S-direction twill, producing parallel bone rows. Thread counts in suitings are typically 30-45 warp threads/cm, in tweeds and coatings often coarser at 20-30 threads/cm. Fibres used are worsted wool (Merino, Shetland), cashmere blends and in summer cotton or linen herringbone.

Herringbone sizes (rapport width) vary: Micro-Herringbone (below 5 mm) for suits, Wide-Herringbone (10-20 mm) for coats and jackets. Classic trade names include Harris Tweed Herringbone and Donegal Herringbone. The weave is abrasion-resistant and dimensionally stable, less delicate than satin.

Properties

Weave typeBroken twill (Z/S)
Thread density20-45 threads/cm
HandleStable, structured
UseSuits, tweeds, coats

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Herringbone Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herringbone_(cloth)
  2. Textile Institute textileinstitute.org https://www.textileinstitute.org/

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