Weaves & fabric constructions

Twill

Also known as: Twill weave

International term for twill weave; in trade usually for fine, smooth twill fabrics (cotton twill, polyester twill).

~1 min read By Christian Habert Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile EditorialAI-assisted Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Twill is the English trade name for twill weave and is often used synonymously in textile sourcing. It is standard in sourcing catalogues and in uniform and workwear. It is a woven fabric with a diagonal wale created by offset binding points.

Common types are Cotton Twill (sturdy, 3/1 Z-twill, 180-320 g/m², for chinos and workwear), Polyester Twill (light, smooth, 90-150 g/m², for blouses, linings and uniform tops) and Wool Twill (suitings). Thread counts range from 25 threads/cm (coarse workwear) to over 100 threads/cm (fine suit twills).

Twill differs from herringbone in that the diagonal runs continuously in one direction. The hand varies with fibre and weight: from silky-smooth to substantial and robust. Twill is often mercerised or Sanforized to enhance lustre and stability. Classic trade names include Gabardine (steep twill), Serge (2/2 twill) and Drill (3/1 twill).

Properties

Weave typeTwill (Z or S diagonal)
Thread density25-100+ threads/cm
HandleSoft to robust, diagonal drape
UseChinos, workwear, blouses, uniforms

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Twill Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twill
  2. Textile Institute textileinstitute.org https://www.textileinstitute.org/

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