Barchent (fustian-type flannel)

Barchent is one of the oldest European fabric families: produced since the 14th century in the weaving centres of Ravensburg, Augsburg and Ulm, it was until the 19th century the leading winter and lining fabric in German-speaking Europe. Classical construction is a linen warp with cotton weft woven in twill or satin binding. The characteristic soft surface is created by one- or two-sided napping with teasels or wire rollers that raise the cotton weft yarns.

Today "Barchent" is used as an umbrella term for heavy napped cotton flannels at 180–260 g/m2 — including all-cotton qualities. Typical uses are heavy winter shirts (checked Barchent shirt), children's pyjamas, cold-season bed linen and jacket linings. The fabric is very warm, machine washable at 60 degrees Celsius and, in good qualities, sanforised (shrink-free). Below 150 g/m2 the fabric is called cotton flannel; the classic Barchent character starts at 180 g/m2.

• Classically linen warp / cotton weft, twill or satin binding
• One- or two-sided napped surface (teasel or wire roller)
• Typical weight 180–260 g/m2 — significantly heavier than plain flannel
• Uses: winter shirts, children's pyjamas, cold-season bedding