Weaves & fabric constructions

End-on-end

Also known as: Fil-à-fil

Plain weave alternating coloured and white warp threads, producing a heathered tone from a distance.

~1 min read Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile Editorial Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

End-on-end (French fil-à-fil, literally thread-to-thread) is a fine plain-weave shirting fabric with the warp alternating one white and one coloured thread (usually blue, grey or pink). The weft is normally solid white. Up close the fine stripe is visible; from a distance the threads visually merge into a soft heathered tone.

Fine combed cotton yarns (Ne 60-100), often mercerised, are used. Thread counts are 55-90 threads/cm, weights 100-130 g/m². The hand is smooth and crisp, drape is fluid. End-on-end sits a step above poplin and reads as dress or business shirting.

Distinction: fil-à-fil refers to the alternation in the warp; chambray produces a similar effect but is coarser (much thicker yarns, often dyed with denim indigo). Chambray looks washed, end-on-end looks formal.

Properties

Weave typePlain weave, alternating warp
Yarn countNe 60-100 combed
AppearanceHeathered-smooth, subtle depth
UseShirts, blouses

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: End-on-end Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/End-on-end
  2. Textile Institute textileinstitute.org https://www.textileinstitute.org/

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