Weaves & fabric constructions

Herringbone

Also known as: Herringbone twill

Zigzag twill weave in which the diagonal direction reverses regularly, creating a bone-like pattern.

~1 min read Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile Editorial Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Herringbone is a broken twill weave: the base twill rapport is mirrored after a set number of threads (typically 8, 12 or 16), so the diagonal reverses direction and forms a bone-like pattern reminiscent of a fish skeleton. It is a woven fabric — warp and weft cross at right angles.

The weave usually combines Z- and S-twill sections, often with plied yarns for contrast. Thread counts are 25-45 threads/cm; the appearance is subtle yet clearly structured. Herringbone is traditionally made with worsted wool for suits, jackets and coats, and in lighter qualities from cotton for shirts and chinos.

The hand varies with fibre: woollen-warm with carded yarns, crisp and smooth with worsted yarns. Herringbone is a classic menswear pattern (herringbone tweed) common in winter coats, English tweeds and business jackets. On ties and waistcoats it acts as a discreet pattern carrier.

Properties

Weave typeBroken twill (Z/S reversal)
Thread density25-45 threads/cm
HandleStructured, crisp or woolly by yarn
UseSuits, coats, jackets

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Fischgrat Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fischgrat_(Muster)
  2. Textile Institute textileinstitute.org https://www.textileinstitute.org/

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