Weaves & fabric constructions

Full linen vs. half linen

Also known as: Pure linen, Union cloth, Métis

Full linen is 100 % flax; half linen by definition contains at least 40 % linen in the weft and cotton in the warp.

~1 min read Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile Editorial Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

The classic European textile standard clearly distinguishes linen goods: pure linen (full linen) must be 100 % flax. Half linen is a blended fabric where the warp is cotton and the weft contains at least 40 % linen (remainder mostly cotton). Internationally this construction is also called union cloth or métis.

Practical impact: half linen has clearly higher tear strength in the warp direction, wrinkles less, is cheaper and shrinks less — hence the default for tea towels, hotel linen and summer suiting. Pure linen is cooler on the skin, highly absorbent and long-lived, but wrinkles a lot and costs more.

  • Pure linen: 100 % flax, cool, heavy creasing
  • Half linen: min. 40 % linen in weft, cotton warp
  • Half linen has higher tear strength and stability
  • Labelling is mandatory under EU textile regulation

Properties

Pure linen definition100 % flax (Linum usitatissimum)
Half-linen definitionCotton warp, weft ≥ 40 % linen
Typical weight150–220 g/m²
ApplicationTea towels, hotel linen, summer suits

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Halbleinen Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halbleinen
  2. Wikipedia: Leinen Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leinen

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