Weaves & fabric constructions

Houndstooth

Also known as: Houndstooth check, Dogtooth

Two-colour check with characteristic broken corners, produced by a 2/2 twill with 4:4 colour repeat.

~1 min read Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile Editorial Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Houndstooth, like pepita, is produced by a 2/2 twill weave with an alternating 4:4 colour repeat in warp and weft. The size difference — houndstooth is markedly larger than pepita — and the notched corners come from the diagonal twill line that pulls the little squares into pointed shapes reminiscent of dog's teeth or bird's feet. The German Hahnentritt (cock's step) and French pied-de-poule (hen's foot) describe the same silhouette.

Classically worsted wool for suits, jackets and skirts; in lighter qualities also cotton or wool blends for dresses, skirts and blazers. Weights: suiting 220-320 g/m², dress fabrics 180-260 g/m². The classic colourway is black-and-white; famously used by Coco Chanel and in the Dior New Look.

Houndstooth reads as an elegant countrywear classic and is used for blazers, skirts, coats, dresses and accessories (scarves, ties). Larger scales (overcheck houndstooth) look casual, smaller ones look formal.

Properties

Weave type2/2 twill, 4:4 colour repeat
Typical fibresWool (worsted), wool blends
Fabric weight180-320 g/m²
UseJackets, coats, skirts, dresses

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Hahnentritt Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hahnentritt
  2. Textile Institute textileinstitute.org https://www.textileinstitute.org/

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