Weaves & fabric constructions

Oxford cloth

Also known as: Oxford weave, OCBD fabric

Basket weave (2/2 plain) with dyed warp and white weft; grainy, robust shirting.

~1 min read Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile Editorial Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Oxford cloth is a basket weave (also called Panama weave, 2/2 plain): two warp threads and two weft threads are woven together as a single thread, creating a chequered, grainy surface. Classic is the combination of coloured/dyed warp and white weft, producing a subtle mélange effect.

Thread counts are 35-70 double warp threads/cm; weights 130-200 g/m². Fibres used are mercerised cotton, often plied (two-ply). The hand is fuller, softer and more textured than poplin, with clearly visible structure.

Classic types are Plain Oxford (sturdy, for casual shirts and OCBD Oxford Cloth Button-Down shirts), Pinpoint Oxford (finer, dressier look between poplin and plain Oxford) and Royal Oxford (finest ply, elegant lustre, business-worthy). Oxford is the standard fabric of the American casual shirt, popular since the early 1900s through Brooks Brothers. It is a woven fabric, breathable and easy-care.

Properties

Weave typeBasket weave (2/2 plain)
Thread density35-70 double threads/cm
HandleFull, grainy, robust
UseCasual shirts, OCBDs

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Oxford cloth Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxford_(cloth)
  2. Textile Institute textileinstitute.org https://www.textileinstitute.org/

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