Weaves & fabric constructions

Pongee

Also known as: Pongee silk

Fine, light plain-weave fabric originally from wild silk; today mostly as synthetic pongee in sport and lining segment.

~1 min read Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile Editorial Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

Pongee is a light plain-weave fabric, originally made in China from tussah wild silk (Chinese penchi = home-woven). Classic silk pongees are silky and smooth, slightly crease-prone, with natural sheen and fine texture. Thread counts of 80-120 threads/cm, weights 40-90 g/m². It is a woven fabric.

In modern apparel, pongee mostly denotes light polyester pongees for sport and outdoor wear: windbreakers, tracksuits, rain jacket shells, linings. These synthetic pongees are coated with PU or silicone for water repellency. Weights 40-80 g/m², thread counts 100-160 threads/cm with very fine filament yarns (dtex 50-100).

The hand is smooth, rustling, often slightly papery. Uses: rain jackets, training jackets, cycling wear, tent liners, premium linings. Synthetic pongee is the basis for many technical two-layer constructions. Compared to taffeta, pongee has finer thread density and softer look.

Properties

Weave typeFine plain weave
Thread density80-160 threads/cm
HandleSmooth, light, rustling
UseRain jackets, linings, sport

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Pongee Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pongee
  2. Textile Institute textileinstitute.org https://www.textileinstitute.org/

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