Ratine

Ratine (also ratteen, rateen) is a heavy woollen fabric with a strongly raised, mostly curled or crimped pile. Historically produced in France, Italy and the Netherlands, it was widely used for coating and uniform cloth in the 18th and 19th centuries. The nubby look comes from a special after-treatment: after fulling, the cloth is passed through a ratining machine that twists the nap into small, tight curls with two boards moving in opposite directions.

The base weave is usually a plain twill or a Panama weave with loose weft. Medium-fine woollen qualities are used (Cheviot, carded wool 25-30 microns) with area weights from 400 to 700 g/m2. The look is closely related to bouclé fabrics, but with ratine the loops are not created by fancy yarns; they emerge from the mechanical ratining of the finished cloth.

Typical uses are heavy winter coats, classic Chanel-inspired suit jackets, capes and opulent fashion fabrics. The hand is warm, soft and slightly springy. Because the process is slow and elaborate, ratine is considered a premium niche fabric and is now woven mainly in Italian and Belgian mills (Zegna, Loro Piana, Scabal) for high-end fashion. It should not be confused with loden - loden is smoother, more felted and without curls.