Taffeta chiné

Taffeta chiné (also chiné à la branche) is a special variant of warp printing: the pattern is printed or dyed onto the warp threads after warping but before weaving. Only then is the fabric woven, usually with a plain-coloured weft in taffeta binding (plain weave, smooth and dense). Because warp threads shift slightly during weaving and the pattern is broken by the weft, the characteristic softly blurred effect emerges - contours are never fully crisp but flow like a watercolour.

The technique originates from the Far East and became fashionable at the French court in the 18th century. Madame de Pompadour wore floral chiné taffeta gowns, giving the fabric the byname 'Pompadour taffeta'. The elaborate production always made chiné a luxury product - one metre of warp-printed fabric needed 40 to 60 percent more labour than conventionally printed cloth.

Today taffeta chiné is used mainly for high-end evening dresses, bridal gowns, ties (menswear Charvet, Hermes), kimono linings and historical costume reproductions. Modern digital warp printers allow smaller runs and sharper patterns; classic hand-printed goods come from France (Lyon silk mills), Italy (Como) and Japan. Combining a voile or georgette weft yields lighter, semi-transparent versions.