Knits, fleece & pile

Brushed

Also known as: Napped, Raised

Finishing process pulling fibre ends out of a fabric or knit — the basis for soft nap.

~1 min read Fact-checked by Clubmartin Textile Editorial Last reviewed: Sources (2)

Description

„Brushed“ or „napped“ denotes a finishing step in which the fabric is passed over rotating card wire rollers. Fine needle or hook wires grip individual fibre ends from the yarn structure, pull them out and align them into an even nap. Brushing runs in several passes with different wire pitch and speed.

After brushing the fabric is usually sheared (nap trimmed to defined height, 0.5-3 mm), polished and, if necessary, anti-pill treated. Brushable materials are all short-staple fibres (cotton, worsted wool, modal) and crimped man-made fibres (polyester, acrylic). Filament polyester is hard to brush and needs secondary texturing.

Applications: fleece (double-brushed polyester circular knit), molton (brushed cotton woven), winter sweat (brushed loopback), flannel (brushed wool twill). Benefits: better insulation, softer hand, opaque look. Drawbacks: higher pilling propensity, more shedding, thicker fabric. Care must respect the brushed character — 30-40 °C, no fabric softener.

Properties

ProcessRaising with card wire rollers
Pile height (typ.)0.5-3 mm
HandleSofter, warmer, more voluminous
ApplicationFleece, molton, winter sweat

Related product categories

Sources & references

2
  1. Wikipedia: Napping (textile) Wikipedia — Freie Enzyklopädie https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Napping_(textile)
  2. Textile Exchange Textile Exchange https://textileexchange.org/

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